There are four mountaineering seasons spring (March-May), summer
(June-August), autumn (September-November) and winter (December-February).
A total of 153 Himalayan peaks are open to mountaineers. Climbing
permits are issued by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation
(MOTCA) for 135 peaks known as mountaineering peaks, and by
the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for 18 smaller peaks,
known as trekking peaks, which range from 5,587 to 6,654 m in
The following documents have to be sent to MOTCA, Mountaineering
Division when applying for a climbing permit completed application,
endorsement of the National Alpine Club, short biographies of
all the members of the expedition (with photograph and signature),
map and/or photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route
and approach route map. Enlistment of the expedition's name
does not require any fee and it should not be paid before receiving
the permit from the Ministry of Tourism.
Permits to climb the 18 trekking
peaks are issued by NMA on "first come first served"
basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognised trekking
agency of Nepal as a local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu.
The trekking agency will look after all the requirements during
A royalty (climbing fee) ranging from US$ 1,500 to US$ 10,000
(according to the altitude of the peak) and US$ 50,000 for Everest
is charged by MOTCA for a group of seven persons. An additional
US$ 20,000 is charged for the normal south east ridge route
on Everest. An additional US$ 200 to US$ 1,500 per person (US$
10,000 per person for Everest) will be charged if the group
exceeds seven persons. The full amount of the royalty has to
be paid within two months of the date of issue of the permit,
otherwise it may be cancelled. The royalty must be paid directly
to MOTCA by bank draft or bank transfer in convertible foreign
For trekking peaks, a royalty
of US$ 300 or US$ 150 is charged by NMA. The permit is valid
for a period of one month for a group of up to 10 persons. An
additional amount of US$ 7.50 per person is charged if the group
exceeds 10 persons.
A rebate of up to 40% on the royalty
may be given during the summer and winter seasons. Full or partial
rebate for a fixed period may be given for new peaks or for
unclimbed open peaks, on "first come first served"
Food and equipment imported for expeditions require an import
license and should be custom cleared. Walkie-talkies, transreceiver
sets and other communication equipment are controlled items
in Nepal and have to be declared at the customs office at the